Bowery Hack – add a chic flange
This flange addition is reminiscent of the Mercer top pattern which has been a fave! But this is a bit more simple and a fun way to spice up a regular sweatshirt with a sleeve that hits right at the shoulder like the Bowery! I also think this hack works so well with the Bowery because style-wise it goes well with the mock neck, which is slightly higher than a regular sweatshirt neckband.
The flange itself is 2″ wide, so we’ll need to add 4″ of width to our Front and Back pattern pieces. Then, you’ll sew the shoulder seams, fold up your 2″ flange and sew it! That’s the quick overview – follow below for more details!
What you’ll need:
Tissue paper or extra copy paper
Add 4″ to your Front and Back
Since the flange will be 2″ wide, I decided that I wanted the flange to cover about 1/2″ of my sleeve seam, so the sleeve seam would be hidden under the shoulder flange.
So, I measured 2″ from the cut edge of the sleeve seam at the shoulder (the Bowery has a 1/2″ seam allowance, so this will allow our flange to overhang by 1/2″).
Then, I drew a line down the pattern starting at my marking, following the grainline.
Then, cut my pattern into 2 pieces along that line.
Next, I added the 4″ to my pattern. I took my tissue paper and laid the 2 pattern pieces on top of it. I taped down one piece and then measured out 4″ from the newly cut edge.
Note: when I placed my second part of the cut piece, I matched the bottom edge of both pieces. That’s how I made sure one piece wasn’t higher or lower than the other!
Next I took my ruler and smoothed out my shoulder seam.
Repeat the same process for the Front and the Back pattern pieces.
Note: as you cut out your fabric, make small notches at the bottom hem and the shoulders of your pattern at your 4″ additions. This way, it’ll be easier to fold up your 4″ later!
Now, for the sewing!
First, you’ll want to sew your shoulder seams and finish with an overlock or zigzag and trim the seam allowance.
Then, working from the right side of your Bowery, match your notches and fold up 2″ wrong sides together. Fold this all along your sweatshirt from the bottom of the hem on the back over the shoulder, and down to the hem in the front. Pin in place.
Now, sew a line of stitching 2″ from the fold. You can sew it the entire way, or experiment with just sewing around the shoulder arm area. This will give you more fullness around the bottom of the sweatshirt.
You’ll want to then press your flange towards the sleeve.
Then, just finish your sweatshirt as normal! This is how mine looks at the underarm with the waistband finished:
I styled mine with a baseball hat, converse and wide jeans for a sporty look.
But I think it works untucked, too!
What do you think of this pattern hack? Let me know if you have any questions below and tag me @sewingandthecity if you make this one – I’d love to see! If you like pattern hacking, check out my course, Hack It here 🙂
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